Base Perfection: Professional Foundation Application Techniques

Monday, October 18th, 2010 at 8:35 pm

Whether you spend a small fortune on your foundation, or are thriftier in your approach to cosmetics, professional application techniques are essential if you want to maximize the value of your investment. As its name suggests, foundation (or base), is the makeup step upon which all subsequent cosmetics you apply rely, therefore, you need to master this step if you are serious about presenting a polished look.

From liquids to powders, gels to minerals, and age-defying to oil-control formulations, regardless of your skin type there is a foundation out there to correct any skin imperfections you may have, and give your skin that airbrushed look we all crave. Sample as many different brands and formulations as possible before purchasing, and research some of the online cosmetics review boards for unbiased opinions without the sales pitch. Allow sales assistants to advise you wherever possible, but never feel pressured into buying a product unless you are 100% certain you have found the right foundation for you.

Color Selection
The advice proffered by magazines and beauty books for years now has been to find a color clone, a shade of foundation that is imperceptible when applied to the jaw line or behind the ear, but professional makeup artists never limit themselves in this way, and nor should you. If your skin is clear and healthy, and you are willing to spend extra time blending carefully around your hairline, jawline, ears and neck, there is no reason why you shouldn’t use a darker shade of foundation to create a tanned appearance.

The most important element to selecting base color is to stick within your own tonal family, paying particular attention to whether you have neutral, red, or yellow undertones, and be realistic about the depth of color your complexion can carry. Never expect your skin to wear a shade darker than it would naturally tan.

If you are uncomfortable with the idea of using a darker shade, apply a color clone foundation first then add color afterwards using a finely milled bronzing powder. The best bronzers contain an array of colors that create a natural, multidimensional finish, as opposed to single pigmented powders which should only be used for facial contouring, as they leave your skin looking dull and lifeless when used on the entire face.

Skin Prep
Perfectly exfoliated skin is essential. Oil clogged pores, and dry, flaky patches of skin subvert foundation by discoloring and altering the texture of the formulation, and prevent the product from gliding effortlessly across the skin. Exfoliate your skin at least once a week and always the day before a special occasion.

Lips are frequently overlooked until the application of lipstick, but tending to them at this stage will improve the polish of your look. Take a warm face flannel, or an old toothbrush, and buff your lips to remove any dry flakes of skin. Next, work in a small amount of lip balm or cream, removing any excess with a tissue. It is frequently advised that you should also apply foundation to your lips but, unless you use a particularly moisture rich formulation, doing so will only zap precious moisture from this delicate area. Applying balm to your lips before foundation works as a barrier to prevent this.

If you want to take advantage of your natural eyebrow color, rather than building color from scratch once foundation is applied, a slick of balm on the brows also discourages product from gathering in this area.

Primed and Plumped
There is a wide array of primers on the market that promise to fill in wrinkles and smooth your skin, allowing for perfect base application. Whilst many of these are excellent, always bear in mind the effect that applying another layer of product can do to your skin. Many primers contain silicone which can plug your pores and cause more problems than they solve, and others can work against the skin, starving it of oxygen, so are not suitable for daily use.

As with foundation, shop around and do some research. If you can find a formulation that suits your skin, and you can afford the added cost, primer can make a significant difference to your makeup, but a good moisturizer can work equally well if you utilize the correct application technique.

Moisture Application
If you want to use a day cream in place of primer it is essential that the formulation is perfectly suited to your skin type. If your moisturizer absorbs quickly and cleanly, and doesn’t slick around on the surface of your skin before eventually subsiding, it will easily double as primer. Skin should feel plump and hydrated to the touch, without any residual slip, and remember to use sparingly at first and add more if needed.

Work a small amount of moisturizer into the dry areas of your skin using a slightly dampened, professional quality foundation sponge. The best sponges are made of a smooth, compacted sponge and, in this case, wedge-shaped. By gently pushing the product into your skin using this technique, you control both the amount and the location of moisture being added, thus eliminating the need to wait until the product settles before applying foundation.

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